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A diamond's soul

The most important parameter to consider is the cut. Nature reigns supreme in determining the size, colour and clarity of a diamond, but the responsibility of the cut is entirely in the hands of a human being.

The first thing an experienced diamond cutter determines is whether the uncut stone has the potential to become a round brilliant cut diamond, where 57 facets provide the optimal light refraction and reflection – the most sought-after type of diamonds by far.

The brilliant cut has developed over several hundreds of years. The facets are divided between the “crown” (the “table” on top of the stone), ”the girdle” (the thin band around the widest part of the diamond), and the cone-shaped ”pavilion” (or bottom). The exact placement of each individual facet is determined according to a carefully calculated formula to maximise the beauty of the finished diamond.

That’s not to say that other cuts are not beautiful. But there is a reason why more than 75 percent of all diamonds are cut as round brilliants. A stone with impressive innate qualities can easily lose its appeal if subjected to a badly executed cut. Conversely, an outstanding cut can enhance a diamond more than nature originally intended.

Hartmann’s always demands top class cuts. We turn down ninety-six percent of all the diamonds that we are offered. The last four percent we buy. A few select diamonds have the extraordinary qualities that merit their being chosen by Hartmann’s.